From Meat Porridge to Royal Dessert: The Incredible History of Christmas Plum Pudding
The Evolution of Christmas Plum Pudding: From Medieval Porridge to Fiery Dessert
When I first saw Christmas Plum Pudding, as a chocolate lover, I imagined a luxurious dark cake. But this dessert turned out to be far more intriguing: beneath its shiny, almost black crust lay something I never expected.
Forget the usual holiday treats. The history of this pudding is an epic journey from a medieval wheat porridge with meat broth (frumenty), eaten after Lent, to a luxurious dessert served at Queen Victoria’s table. Why was it called Plum if it doesn’t contain plums? What does it have in common with the Magi? And how did Beef Suet end up in the perfect Christmas treat?
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| Photo by Matt Seymour on Unsplash |
I’ll tell the story of one of the most unusual Christmas desserts and share an ancient recipe from the Queen’s personal chef.
From Frumenty to Christmas Treats
Before Plum Pudding appeared, a predecessor, completely different from its modern counterpart, called frumenty, was served at Christmas. It appeared in the Middle Ages, beginning in the 14th century or earlier. It was prepared with meat broth and the addition of wheat, raisins, and spices.
Over time (in the 18th century), this dish was transformed into plum porridge, and it soon became associated with Christmas. It is a thick, sweeter porridge cooked in broth with an abundance of dried fruit.
Lent preceded Christmas, and plum porridge was eaten at Christmas to “cleanse” the stomach after the fasting period leading up to the holiday. Plum Pudding only appeared in the 19th century, during the Victorian era, in Great Britain. In 1846, after the publication of Queen Victoria’s book, the dish was popularized. Later, also in the 19th century, the dessert was called Christmas Pudding.
Why Plum: It’s All About the Raisins
Although the pudding doesn’t contain plums, its name comes from the word plum, which at the time referred to raisins and other dried fruits added to the dough.
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| Victorian image of a mother proudly presenting the Christmas pudding |
Stir-up Sunday and the Coin Tradition
When the dish was simply porridge, it was affordable for almost all social classes, except the very poor. But its transformation into a dessert, which included expensive ingredients such as alcohol, sugar, and spices, made it available only to the wealthy.
Making the pudding was a very important family tradition, involving the entire family. Each family member had to stir the dough from east to west (in honor of the Magi, who followed the star) and make a wish.
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| 1843 Wood Engraving, Christmas Pudding Print |
Next, the pudding was placed in floured cheesecloth or a special pudding bag, tied tightly, and suspended over boiling water (a vat of water). As it cooked, it took on the shape of a bag.
Nowadays, special pudding molds are sold to give it a beautiful shape.
Pudding preparation began on a Sunday called Stir-up Sunday. This was the last Sunday before Advent, five weeks before Christmas. The pudding took many weeks to prepare and mature.
Nowadays, of course, you can simply buy pudding at a supermarket or international store.
In the Victorian era, there was a tradition of adding a coin to the pudding while cooking. This meant a lucky year and would bring in money. Other items were also added:
- Ring: for a quick wedding.
- Thimble: for thrift and good luck.
- Thread or button: for a single life.
Thankfully, this tradition has been abandoned due to safety concerns. Furthermore, the coin can turn green or impart a metallic taste to the dough. Coins were made differently in the past. (And I hope they were cleaned before being added to the pudding.
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| A Victorian-era postcard featuring a boy with plum pudding |
13 Ingredients and Fire: The Most Interesting Facts
- The finished dough was placed in a cloth bag and hung over steam. This way, over several weeks, it would become round.
- The pudding consisted of 13 ingredients, and according to some versions, this represented Jesus Christ and the 12 apostles.
- The top of the pudding is garnished with a sprig of holly, symbolizing Christ’s crown of thorns.
- Setting the pudding on fire. Since it contains alcohol, it is customary to set the pudding on fire. According to an older version, this signified the Passion of Christ. Nowadays, it is simply a beautiful festive element.
- Poor families added bread and biscuit crumbs, saved from meals, to the dough instead of flour. These acted as a binding agent and helped give the pudding a dense yet moist texture. They absorbed fat and alcohol, swelling.
- There is no chocolate in the pudding. Its color comes from the dark sugar or molasses it contains, as well as brandy. “Ripening” it for weeks or even months in the brandy helps caramelize the ingredients and deepen their color.
Royal Approval: How Queen Victoria Made Pudding a Star
Pudding quickly became a part of Christmas tradition, thanks again to Queen Victoria. The recipe, created by the Queen’s chef, Charles Elmé Francatelli, was even published in 1846 in the book “The Modern Cook.” Thanks to this, the middle class began making pudding at home using this recipe.
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| The Cookbook of Queen Victoria’s Chef — Francatelli, 1846 |
Queen Victoria’s Chef’s Recipe (1846): The Big Secret — Beef Suet
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| Screenshot taken by the author |
Directions
- Mix all ingredients thoroughly in a large bowl several hours before cooking the pudding. This allows the dried fruits and spices to infuse better.
- Pour the mixture into a greased pudding pan. Cover the pan with greased parchment paper, then wrap it in a thick cloth (or seal the lid tightly). Leave some space for expansion.
- Cook the pudding in a double boiler (in boiling water, but not completely covering the pan) for 4.5 hours.
- Before serving, reheat the pudding (by steaming again) and serve it drizzled with custard or brandy butter.
Beef Suet in pudding sounds a bit off-putting; it is, after all, a dessert. While this is a nod to history, its main role is to provide the unique, moist, and long-lasting texture that was the hallmark of this festive dish. It also preserves the pudding, which helps keep it fresh until Christmas. Refrigeration didn’t exist back then. It also made the pudding lighter. Replacing it with butter will result in a denser batter.
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| Victorian illustration: Mother bringing in the Christmas pudding |
Interestingly, Queen Victoria adored plum pudding, while Princess Diana preferred “Bread and butter pudding with amaretto”. This is a traditional British dessert, historically known as “poor man’s pudding” because it was made from stale bread, eggs, and cream.
Christmas plum pudding is more than just a dessert; it’s an edible time capsule. Every spoonful contains the history of fasting, traditions, superstitions, and the luxury of the Victorian era. This pudding is living proof of how culinary culture adapts and preserves the echoes of centuries.
As we delved into history, it became clear that true value lies in creating traditions and interesting stories. I also believe in creating things that bring joy and are memorable. Perhaps you’ll find something useful or simply something sweet here? 🦝
Are you ready to take a risk and try making Christmas Pudding using the old-fashioned beef tallow recipe, or would you prefer a less extreme option? Share your favorite Christmas dessert in the comments!
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